|
| 外型尺寸 | |
| 品牌 | 德國KAYSEN |
| 貨號 | |
| 用途 | 可以泵吸各種強(qiáng)酸和強(qiáng)堿以及腐蝕性液體介質(zhì)； 針對各種劇毒、有害以及揮發(fā)性液體都能泵 |
| 型號 | KAYSEN |
| 工作壓差 | 0 |
| 制造商 | |
| 壓力環(huán)境 | 常壓 |
| 介質(zhì)溫度 | 1200℃ |
| 驅(qū)動方式 | 電動 |
| 適用介質(zhì) | 水 |
| 是否進(jìn)口 |
進(jìn)口化工泵|原裝化工泵
德國凱森（KAYSEN）品牌，*的十*，我們的化工泵在SchwbischGmnd生產(chǎn)。
凱森始終堅(jiān)持“重質(zhì)量，講信譽(yù)”為宗旨。產(chǎn)品現(xiàn) 全國各地，并已逐步開發(fā)海外市場。公司多次被評為“重合同講信用”企業(yè)，深得用戶的信賴和廣泛的贊譽(yù)。
德國KAYSEN凱森化工泵概述
進(jìn)口化工泵是節(jié)能泵的一種，泵的性能，技術(shù)要求，根據(jù)國際標(biāo)準(zhǔn)ISO2858所規(guī)定的性能和尺寸設(shè)計(jì)的，化工泵是單級單吸(軸向吸入)耐腐蝕離心泵，供輸送不含固體顆粒、具有腐蝕性、粘度類似水的液體化工泵分類：不銹鋼化工泵，塑料化工泵，氟塑料化工泵，電動化工泵，氣動化工泵。
主要特點(diǎn)：
負(fù)壓泵
開泵前，吸入管和泵內(nèi)必須充滿液體。開泵后，葉輪高速旋轉(zhuǎn)，其中的液體隨著葉片一起旋轉(zhuǎn)，在離心力的作用下，飛離葉輪向外射出，射出的液體在泵殼擴(kuò)散室內(nèi)速度逐漸變慢，壓力逐漸增加，然后從泵出口，排出管流出。此時(shí)，在葉片中心處由于液體被甩向周圍而形成既沒有空氣又沒有液體的真空低壓區(qū)，液池中的液體在池面大氣壓的作用下，經(jīng)吸入管流入泵內(nèi)，液體就是這樣連續(xù)不斷地從液池中被抽吸上來又連續(xù)不斷地從排出管流出。
正壓泵
主要指液下泵其工作原理以加油站潛油泵 和長軸液下泵為例，潛油泵是將電機(jī)和泵一起浸入罐底，電機(jī)帶動葉輪增壓將介質(zhì)推送到地面目標(biāo)，長軸液下泵是將泵和電機(jī)分開用長軸連接，其工作原理是正壓輸送介質(zhì)，因此解決了負(fù)壓輸送介質(zhì)時(shí)產(chǎn)生的氣阻問題和葉輪的汽蝕問題。潛油泵的電機(jī)不在液面上，而是在液面下。電機(jī)是潛沒電機(jī)，與泵輪連接成一體潛在液體里，這樣設(shè)計(jì)的主要優(yōu)點(diǎn)是：泵的軸承只有幾百毫米，沒有長軸，不會出現(xiàn)擺動問題，運(yùn)行平穩(wěn)，聲音很小，幾乎沒有磨損。
化工泵密封形式主要有：油封密封、墊片密封、螺紋密封、迷宮密封、填料密封和動力密封、機(jī)械密封。
油封密封
是一種自緊式唇狀密封，其結(jié)構(gòu)簡單，尺寸小，成本低廉，維護(hù)方便，阻轉(zhuǎn)矩較小，既能防止介質(zhì)泄漏，也能防止外部塵土和其它有害物質(zhì)侵入，而且對磨損有一定的補(bǔ)償能力，但不耐高壓，所以一般用在低壓場合的化工泵上。
墊片密封
墊片是離心泵靜密封的基本元件，使用范圍非常廣泛。墊片的選型主要根據(jù)化工泵輸送介質(zhì)、溫度、壓力和腐蝕性等因素決定。
螺紋密封
在化工泵上一般有兩種形式，一種是螺紋聯(lián)接墊片密封，一種是螺紋加填充濟(jì)密封，二者皆用于小直徑螺紋連接的密封場合。螺紋聯(lián)電動隔膜泵接墊片密封的密封件是墊片，而螺紋只起提供壓緊力的作用。
迷宮密封
在設(shè)計(jì)合理，加工精良，裝配完好、轉(zhuǎn)速較高時(shí)，迷宮密封效果很好。但在實(shí)際應(yīng)用中，因此而產(chǎn)生的化工泵泄漏卻很多，所以在化工泵密封中不常用。
填料密封
是將富有壓縮性和回彈性的填料放入填料函內(nèi)，依靠壓蓋的軸向壓緊力轉(zhuǎn)化為徑向密封力，從而起到密封作用。
這種密封方法稱為填料密封，這種填料稱為密封填料。由于填料密封結(jié)構(gòu)形式簡單，更換方便、價(jià)格低廉、適應(yīng)轉(zhuǎn)速、壓力、介質(zhì)寬泛而在化工泵的設(shè)計(jì)中得到普遍采用。
動力密封
化工泵在與運(yùn)轉(zhuǎn)時(shí)，副葉輪所產(chǎn)生的壓頭平衡了主葉輪出口高壓液體，從而實(shí)現(xiàn)密封。停車時(shí)，副葉輪不起作用，因此必須同時(shí)配備停車密封裝置解決停車時(shí)可能產(chǎn)生的化工泵泄漏。
副葉輪密封結(jié)構(gòu)簡單、密封可靠、使用壽命長，化工泵運(yùn)轉(zhuǎn)中可實(shí)現(xiàn)滴水不漏，因此在化工泵輸送含雜質(zhì)介質(zhì)的泵上經(jīng)常采用。
機(jī)械密封
現(xiàn)在化工泵行業(yè)使用最為廣泛的密封形式，由于機(jī)械密封具有泄漏量少和壽命長等優(yōu)點(diǎn)，所以當(dāng)今 上機(jī)械密封是在這些設(shè)備最主要的軸密封方式。機(jī)械密封又叫端面密封，在國家有關(guān)標(biāo)準(zhǔn)中是這樣定義的：“由至少一對垂直于旋轉(zhuǎn)軸線的端面在流體壓力和補(bǔ)償機(jī)構(gòu)彈力（或磁力）的作用以及輔助密封的配合下保持貼合并相對滑動而構(gòu)成的防止流體泄漏的裝置?！?
主要優(yōu)點(diǎn)：
檢修方便
全系列水利性能布局合理
用戶選擇范圍寬
“后開式”結(jié)構(gòu)
效率和吸程達(dá)到國際先進(jìn)水平
主要應(yīng)用：
不銹鋼化工泵廣泛用于石油、化工、冶金、合成纖維、制藥、食品、合成纖維等部門用于輸送堿性腐蝕介質(zhì)
氟塑料化工泵用于輸送任何酸性、堿性腐蝕性介質(zhì)
鑄鐵化工泵用于工業(yè)、城市給水、排水、亦可用于農(nóng)田、果園排灌，供輸送清水或物理及化學(xué)性質(zhì)類似清水的其他液體
基本的預(yù)防性維護(hù)保持泵流動
執(zhí)行預(yù)防性維護(hù)有助于防止泵停機(jī)
有人說：“你不知道自己得到了什么，直到它消失。”對于任何曾經(jīng)忽視泵的人來說，這個(gè)概念可能是太熟悉了?？煽康谋迷谡９ぷ鲿r(shí)并不真正被認(rèn)可，但是如果泵的性能下降，或者更糟糕的是，該設(shè)備完全停止工作，那么可靠性會被錯(cuò)過。為避免泵停機(jī)和隨后的麻煩，必須遵守預(yù)防性維護(hù)計(jì)劃。
每天開始泵檢查。最重要的日常檢查之一是發(fā)動機(jī)油的質(zhì)量和水平。骯臟的油可能會導(dǎo)致嚴(yán)重的問題并降低發(fā)動機(jī)的使用壽命; 同樣，如果數(shù)量不足。根據(jù)制造商的建議更換機(jī)油或根據(jù)需要添加以達(dá)到水平。
檢查汽油水平，確保油箱已滿，或者至少滿足一天的使用量。同時(shí)尋找任何燃油或漏油跡象。如果液體滴落，請檢查該區(qū)域是否有可能需要擰緊或更換的部件。
清潔或可能更換空氣過濾器是另一個(gè)可以防止重大損壞的重要做法。堵塞，潮濕或骯臟的空氣過濾器會導(dǎo)致動力損失，并通過允許污垢或水進(jìn)入敏感區(qū)域來縮短發(fā)動機(jī)的使用壽命。泡沫元件可以清潔和重復(fù)使用，所以每天檢查一下就可以了。如果過濾器已損壞或缺少大塊，請將其更換。對于紙質(zhì)空氣過濾器，操作員應(yīng)按照推薦的時(shí)間表及時(shí)更換。
定期檢查軟管的狀況。如果它們磨損，磨損或有任何漏洞，則氣隙可能會導(dǎo)致泵失去吸力。修補(bǔ)任何孔并密封泄漏的接頭。應(yīng)該更換嚴(yán)重磨損的軟管。*，檢查機(jī)器的其余部分是否有螺栓，螺母或零件松動。
在所有的手術(shù)前檢查中，日常維護(hù)中最重要的事情可能就是在開始之前啟動泵。運(yùn)行干燥的泵會損壞密封件，導(dǎo)致更多問題的連鎖反應(yīng)。如果是自吸泵，只需加水即可。術(shù)語“自吸”有點(diǎn)用詞不當(dāng)，因?yàn)槊看问褂脮r(shí)必須將水添加到泵中。然后泵將接管，在蝸殼內(nèi)建立壓力并開始排放。
不太頻繁的檢查
一旦泵已經(jīng)準(zhǔn)備好了，就可以開始工作了。除日常檢查外，泵還需要其他維護(hù)檢查和服務(wù)。雖然這些不需要每天完成，但它們對泵的使用壽命至關(guān)重要，并應(yīng)定期按計(jì)劃進(jìn)行。一般來說， 的泵引擎可以運(yùn)行幾千小時(shí)，并且遵循推薦的維護(hù)計(jì)劃只能增加該時(shí)間和泵的效率。
有幾件事情需要每月檢查幾次，其他事件則更少。例如，紙張空氣過濾器應(yīng)在需要時(shí)更換。雖然泡沫過濾器可以清洗并重新使用，但是當(dāng)它開始分解或分解時(shí)，需要更換。
臟的火花塞可能會導(dǎo)致功率下降和起動性能差，因此應(yīng)每半月檢查一次火花塞是否有殘留油污，污垢，損壞或積碳過多的情況。用鋼絲刷或火花塞清潔器清潔火花塞。立即更換任何火花塞與裂紋瓷。
每年都要對泵進(jìn)行 檢查，檢查是否有骯臟，破損或未對齊的部件。這些部件可能會導(dǎo)致發(fā)動機(jī)或泵部件出現(xiàn)問題。檢查整臺機(jī)器可以*地了解需要清潔和修理的部件。
值得注意的是，灰塵狀況通常會縮短正常服務(wù)之間的時(shí)間長度，因?yàn)?的灰塵會堵塞過濾器元件或污染燃料和機(jī)油。取決于泵的環(huán)境，可能需要調(diào)整維護(hù)計(jì)劃以適應(yīng)低于*條件。
故障排除提示
即使定期進(jìn)行適當(dāng)?shù)念A(yù)防性維護(hù)計(jì)劃，泵仍然可能會遇到問題。這很不幸，但很常見。知道如何尋找并快速解決問題將使問題不再成為更昂貴，耗時(shí)的修復(fù)。
如果泵不啟動，罪魁禍?zhǔn)卓赡苁侨~輪或發(fā)動機(jī)。如果葉輪粘住，只需拆下泵蓋，清潔并重新安裝。至于引擎，幾個(gè)不同的東西可能會影響它，并阻止從開始。
首先要檢查的是火花塞。如果它被油渣，氣體或碳污染，請清潔它。如果它損壞了，請更換它。如果它干凈無損，請將其連接到插頭蓋并將插頭與發(fā)動機(jī)機(jī)身接地。拉起動器，看看火花是否微弱或不存在。如果新的或清潔的插頭沒有點(diǎn)燃，則點(diǎn)火系統(tǒng)可能有故障，可能需要更換。
如果火花塞松動或插頭浸濕燃油，發(fā)動機(jī)也可能無法啟動。如果火花塞是潮濕的，請檢查燃油旋塞是否關(guān)閉。如果是這樣，關(guān)閉阻風(fēng)門拉桿并拉動起動手柄6次，看電極是否變濕。如果電極干燥，問題可能與化油器的燃料吸入有關(guān)。試著看看燃油停在發(fā)動機(jī)的哪里。
其他一些事情可能會導(dǎo)致泵不能自行灌注。首先檢查泵吸入側(cè)的漏氣情況; 如果需要，擰緊吸入軟管或管道。檢查排水塞，確保它完全擰緊。泵殼內(nèi)的水不足也會阻止泵啟動。
發(fā)動機(jī)轉(zhuǎn)速也會影響泵送量。如果泵送量下降，則抽吸軟管可能太長或抽吸腔室上的零件松動可能需要重新擰緊。這也可能是由于需要降低高吸力，水通道漏水，機(jī)械密封磨損或斷裂或發(fā)動機(jī)輸出功率或速度下降造成的。
采取積極主動的預(yù)防措施，確保關(guān)鍵的維護(hù)服務(wù)不會被忽視，防止泵出現(xiàn)故障時(shí)產(chǎn)生多米諾骨牌效應(yīng)，浪費(fèi)時(shí)間并增加維修成本。這很簡單直接 - 泵的維護(hù)現(xiàn)在意味著更少的問題。遵循良好的維護(hù)計(jì)劃，例如上述步驟，是保持泵流量的*和*的方法之一。
Basic Preventive Maintenance to Keep Pumps Flowing
Performing preventive maintenance helps prevent pump downtime
It has been said, “You don’t know what you’ve got until it’s gone.” This concept can be all-too-familiar for anyone who has ever neglected a pump. A dependable pump isn’t truly appreciated when it’s working properly but that dependability is really missed if a pump’s performance declines, or worse, the unit stops working altogether. To avoid pump downtime and subsequent headaches, a preventive maintenance program must be followed.
Start each day with a pump inspection. Among the most important daily checks is the quality and level of engine oil. Oil that’s dirty can cause serious problems and decrease the life of an engine; likewise, if there’s an insufficient amount of it. Change the oil or add if necessary to reach the level as per manufacturer recommendation.
Check the gasoline level as well, making sure the tank is full, or at least full enough for the day’s usage. Also look for any evidence of fuel or oil leaks. If a fluid is dripping, inspect the area for any parts that may need to be tightened or replaced.
Cleaning or possibly changing the air filter is another important practice that can prevent significant damage. A clogged, wet or dirty air filter can lead to a loss in power and shorten the life of an engine by allowing dirt or water into sensitive areas. A foam element can be cleaned and reused, so it’s fine to check daily. If the filter has been damaged or is missing chunks, replace it. For paper air filters, operators should follow a recommended schedule for replacement in a timely fashion.
Inspect the condition of the hoses regularly, as well. If they are worn, frayed or have any holes, the air gaps will likely cause the pump to lose suction. Patch any holes and seal leaking joints. A severely worn hose should be replaced. Finally, check the rest of the machine for broken bolts, nuts or loose parts.
Of all the pre-operation checks, perhaps the most important thing to remember for daily maintenance is priming the pump before starting. Running a pump dry will damage the seals, causing a chain reaction of further problems. If it’s a self-priming pump, simply add water. The term “self-priming” is somewhat of a misnomer, as water must be added to the pump each time it is used. The pump will then take over, build pressure within the volute and begin discharging.
Less-frequent Checks
Once the pump has been prepped, it’s ready to go to work. In addition to daily checks, a pump requires other maintenance checks and services. While those don’t need to be done daily, they are crucial to the pump’s life and should be kept up with on a regular schedule. Generally, quality pump engines can operate for a few thousand hours, and following recommended maintenance schedules can only increase that time and the pump’s ROI.
A few things need to be checked a couple of times a month, others even less frequently. For instance, a paper air filter should be changed when needed. Although a foam filter can be cleaned and re-used, when it begins to disintegrate or come apart, replacement is necessary.
Dirty spark plugs can cause a decrease in power and poor starting performance, so the spark plugs should be checked semi-monthly for oil residue, dirt, damage or excessive carbon buildup. Clean spark plugs with a wire brush or spark plug cleaner. Immediately replace any spark plugs with cracked porcelain.
On an annual basis, give the pump a thorough inspection for dirty, broken or misaligned parts. Such parts can cause problems with the engine or pump components. Inspecting the entire machine gives the most comprehensive view of what needs to be cleaned and repaired.
It’s also worth noting that dusty conditions typically shorten the length of time between regular services, as extreme dust can clog filter elements or contaminate fuel and oil. Depending on the pump’s environment, maintenance schedules may need to be adjusted to accommodate for less than optimal conditions.
Tips For Troubleshooting
Even with a regular, proper preventive maintenance program, pumps may still experience problems. This is unfortunate, but common. Knowing what to look for and addressing it quickly will keep the problem from becoming a more expensive, time-intensive repair.
If a pump won’t start, the culprit is likely the impeller or engine. If the impeller is sticking, simply disassemble it by taking the pump cover off, clean and reinstall. As for the engine, several different things could affect it and prevent if from starting.
The first thing to check is the spark plug. If it’s dirty with oil residue, gas or carbon, clean it. If it’s damaged, replace it. If it’s clean and damage-free, connect it to the plug cap and ground the plug against the engine body. Pull the starter to see if the spark is weak or nonexistent. If a new or cleaned plug doesn’t spark, the ignition system could be faulty and may need replacement.
The engine also might not start if the spark plug is loose or if the plug is wet with fuel. If the spark plug is wet, check to see that the fuel cock is closed. If so, close the choke lever and pull the starter handle a half-dozen times to see if the electrode becomes wet. If the electrode is dry, the problem may be with the fuel intake of the carburetor. Try to see where the fuel stops in the engine.
A number of other things could cause a pump to not self-prime. Start by checking for air leaks on the suction side of the pump; tighten the suction hose or pipe, if needed. Check the drain plug, as well, to ensure that it has been tightened completely. Insufficient water inside the pump casing will also prevent the pump from priming.
Engine speed can affect pumping volume, as well. If the pumping volume has dropped, the suction hose may be too long or loose parts on the suction chamber may need re-tightening. This might also be caused by a high suction lift that would need to be lowered, water leaking from the water passage, a worn or broken mechanical seal or a drop in engine output or speed.
Adopting a proactive preventive approach ensures that crucial maintenance services won’t be neglected, preventing a domino effect of problems as the pump goes down, time is lost and repair costs add up. It’s simple and straightforward - pump maintenance now will mean fewer issues later. Following a good maintenance program, such as the steps detailed above, is among the best and most inexpensive ways to keep a pump flowing.
進(jìn)口化工離心泵|原裝化工泵
